
Bram Stoker’s, 1897 novel Dracula came towards the end of the Gothic novel’s popularity, but for many, it is the finest example of that genre.
Perhaps what makes it stand out, is that unlike many Gothic novels which feature what we might today call the ‘Scooby Doo’ ending – the ghost in reality is the old caretaker in a sheet and the supernatural horror is defused – Dracula is infused with the sense of a real supernatural threat invading the ‘modern’ world of science and reason. There is no explanation at the end, only a last minute and costly victory over a palpable force of evil.
Those who travel to Romania (the modern country which encompasses Transylvania) will find that Vlad Tsepes (the historical figure Dracula is based on) is regarded as a national hero and his picture adorns school walls etc.
While there is plenty of fabricated Dracula entertainment for the tourists (there is at least one ‘Dracula’s Castle’ – but the strongest claim that any can make is ‘Vlad Tsepes slept here’), the strongest link to Stoker’s novel is the harsh beauty of the Carpathian mountains.
Although it is almost certain that Stoker never went to Transylvania, he did visit Whitby in North Yorkshire on a number of occasions, and the locations he used in Dracula can still be seen today.
Whitby remains a working fishing port as it is was in Stoker’s day, with the town split by the harbour and a swivelling bridge allowing the passage of cars and pedestrians from one side to the other.
Climbing the 200 steps from the bottom of the town to the Steep hill on the Southern side of the harbour, one can command an imposing view across the bay.

From here one can see the beach upon which the hapless ship, The Demeter founders with its dead crew and undead cargo.
At the top of the hill is St Mary’s Church, which features the cliff-top seat, facing out to sea, where Lucy is discovered at night with Dracula lowering over her.
The nearby ruins of Whitby Abbey loom over the entire town, adding to its romantic appeal.

When I first started visiting Whity by in the 1980s there was very little made of the town’s Dracula heritage, but now shops sell coffin-shaped candy, Dracula souvenirs and other tacky nic-nacs, there is even a multi-media Dracula experience on the seafront. The Dracula association has also made it a magnet for Goths, and there are regular Goth festivals, horror movie weekends and the like.
However, the town still remains much of its charm, and shops selling imported junk cannot subtract from the drama of the North Yorkshire landscape.
Opus Diaboli recommends:
The Dolphin Hotel. Once a gastro-pub now, sadly, under new management. If one can tolerate the incredible indifference of the staff (I checked in and out again without exchanging more than half-a-dozen words), even the modestly-priced rooms have a charming view over the harbour.
The Passage to India restaurant, excellent food, sensible prices and attractive decor.
For all things Goth, try Gothic Crafts, at Haggersgate, one of the few shops still selling quality items of a Gothic nature.
Whitby Jet: Jet is a black mineral which is as light as wood. Victorians loved it for mourning jewellery and Whitby is one of the few places in the world where it can be found. Whitby has a number of jewellers providing Jet jewellery both antique and modern, from the trashy to the exquisite. However, while the best work is worth every penny, even the trashy end of the market isn’t cheap.